Top rope vs lead climbing reddit Every company measures their ropes The point of the + is the cam is less sensitive when feeding rope for lead climbing. Keep in mind, however, that this feature is highly dependent on the diameter of the rope being used. I understand the differences between top rope and lead belaying, but what are the differences for the climbing in terms of technique and physical challenges? Jun 2, 2021 · To be honest, a lot of routes are a pita to top rope and are much easier to just lead. Movement Englewood, Baker, Boulder, and Golden all have top rope and lead climbing. Maybe once every 2-3 months. 10d outdoors In lead belaying you're paying out rope (giving slack) while in top rope you're always taking in slack. Hello! I've been climbing for about 2 years now, but over the past 3 months have been going on a regular basis and getting more serious about it. I don't really have any experience with the top rope vs lead mode feature so i can't really speak to the potential usefulness. Recently within the past two months I have gotten into top rope climbing and I can confidently climbing 5. The + does have an antipanic feature where you can’t pull the lever all the way back otherwise is auto locks the cam and you have to release the lever and start lowering again so you have to feel out the tension on it more yourself (which can be real annoying I have been climbing for almost 2 years now and I am only now looking to get my rope and if I did that before I really wouldn't know what I would be climbing. I can follow/top rope 5. It's great to start off with top, it's a good way to learn technique and build confidence but if you're waiting to reach a point where you know 100% you're ready for lead, you might not reach it. As for belaying I would personally top rope on the last climb and top out. top rope whenever feasible to get better at learning to rest efficiently & feel more comfortable with lead. I’ve never had an issue with the Mega Jul not being smooth. Just used mine yesterday for the first time and boy did they feel sticky on slab. 11+ confidently in a gym setting. I've seen the Edelrid Pinch and love the fact that you can clip it directly to the belay loop. In some ways, being able to build endurance by doing laps and building to solve hard problems quickly has helped me become a much better lead climber. Neither the grigris nor the neox work without a hand on the brake, from above (though the grigri+ in top rope mode does, actually,) The initial 25 ft of radically overhanging savergry, precise movement and powerful gymnastic climbing is in my opinion slightly harder than Esperanza V14 but on a rope clipping bolts and then yields a jug followed by solid 5. I wouldn't solo lead with the gri-gri, unless you are talking about aid climbing. But the article covers this well. Internally, the rope runs along a cam, which allows the rope to pass if moving slowly but when the rope moves quickly the cam will rotate, pinching the rope. For free climbing, solo on lead, you want a proper device. It is responsive and secure. As you approach 9. Most climbing gear is considered too strong to fail and redundancy is needed only in specific cases. This is true for top-rope climbing, but especially for lead climbing where you need to know and pay attention to way more stuff in terms of safety. If they are showing you these types of stats on manufacturer's website, its likely a dynamic rope. It's why we tie a knot at the end of a rope for instance. It's all about learning. Been climbing for 8 months but went to boulder maybe three or four times. I know people say just buy any basic, cheap one for starters but I want and am willing to invest on something that I could use for the next couple years. Oct 12, 2020 · If someone asks you for your sport climbing grade or your lead grade, they mean the highest grade of sport climb that you can cleanly lead. If you can belay on a Grigri, you can belay on an ATC. 11s. I'm pretty sure the gyms here in Holland use dynamic rope even for top roping (possibly low stretch dynamic rope). Now bouldering involves huge volumes, coordination dynos, tricky body positions, etc. I top rope/ lead 2/week. It's endless. I use the Soloist, but I think they stopped manufacturing it. I recently ran into a (for me) unclimbable problem on a toprope route. 2 and thinner, ropes will last just as long used as a personal rope of a climbing guide, but the weekend warrior that isn't taking as specific care of them will find that it's going to get worn and soft and fuzzy much faster. **Top Rope Climbing Pros: ** In addition to rock climbing, I work in tree care. I have been strictly top rope so far and have gotten up to 5. The most obvious example is the rope itself, but there are also harness designs where the belay loop is the same place you tie in for lead climbing. I can onsight most v3/v4 and do half the v5s after a few tries. Every single comp is lead climbing. the static and dynamic elongation percentages are the based on how the rope is loaded (static means load applied when rope is already stretched out like a toprope fall It is most definitely safer for top rope, and climbing is all about removing those little 'happens once in a thousand' accidents. Don't stress about the diameter. Bouldering doesn't train your endurance as well as top-rope climbing. Gri gri or gri gri + will work but will require you to manually pull rope through every once in a while. Given enough weight difference and not enough friction in the TR anchor, you absolutely need a weight sack for top rope, or you'll get pulled up when they let go at the top cartoon style. I started out top roping and slowly worked myself into lead. A regular grigri slips under the weight of the rope when belaying someone from above. Even if you do all of your easier warm-ups on lead before moving to top roping, it'll make a difference! I'd also practice clipping off the wall. You will be challenged physically and mentally by both bouldering and top rope climbing. I don’t know my true Outdoor trad lasting limit cause it’s so freaking scary. But more people are climbing only in gyms or only top rope so who knows, I think it changes based on the context. Whereas on top rope/lead there are usually only a few moves where I have to focus on technique. And the difference between top-rope and Lead, well that's a whole different topic, but essentially, it's the reverse of top-rope, because you are giving out rope as the climber climbs, rather than taking in the slack, in addition to a lot of extra things to pay attention to. In general a longer rope is ok anywhere but you have to carry it around and it is heavy. If I know someone climbs outside regularly, I assume they mean their lead grade outdoor. Top roping more does not help you lead confidence. com Top roping you’re supported from above, while lead climbing you’re always above your rope. The setup I mentioned allows you to climb freely without having to mess with the rope. Lead climbing routes actually traverse and go under massive overhangs, etc. The increased durability is probably only a concern for devices that are used commercially, the average weekend warrior won't wear out a gri gri 2019. Consider, for example, climbing on an overhang. This is because the height of the top rope wall is about half of the height of the lead wall, and also because the lead wall has lots of overhangs. I’d like to let her wander around, sniff and check stuff out while still having control over her if Ok, I'm having trouble understanding ropes. My biggest tips would be to lead vs. Vertical ventures. If I’m spending a long day climbing, I will generally use the trick where you put a carabiner with a small nose through the back, and pull on that to lower. But if you are newbie, you should either not be introduced to top rope or leave behind very quickly. I use a Trango Vergo as a backup. The goal is to make sure you have the endurance to make it through the class itself, and that you'll be able to lead climb something that you can top rope pretty effortlessly to make sure you have both the physical strength and brain power to add in the extra steps of lead climbing. see the rest of the conversation below, but lead climbing is both psychologically and physically more difficult than top roping. I'm buying a harness this weekend but was curious as to which is the best one. By the time you've worn out your first rope you'll know what you want your second rope to do. 13 multipitch crack climbers in the Valley that were working the same 6's and 7's as me because they don't build much explosiveness or finger strength crack climbing. leash for regular walks. Top rope, lead, multi pitch, rope ascension, single-line raps; the device does a lot. Many climbers differentiate their sport leading grade from their top-rope climbing grade and their trad leading grade. Bouldering gyms can be expensive, especially compared to top roping at a climbing gym or outside. It doesn't have the possibility of a cam not functioning, it's light, easy to tie, and cheap. If sitting at the edge I would belay off my harness, if hanging I would extend and use a guide mode device. Once someone is proficient with both an ATC and a GriGri2, I think the case is difficult to make that the ATC is any safer. I’m looking into getting a long lead for beginning off leash/loose heel training for my 5 month old golden retriever puppy. It makes lead belaying harder since you can move less but as long as the belayer is competent I'd prefer that to the alternative, if no other options are I think the reality is closer to the opposite of that. Leading requires a lot more time and at the gym I don’t know if it helps with headspace at all since the clips are so close together anyway I have the same experience but it makes sense in my case. GriGri2 pays out slack very easily when you get the hand positioning right, makes the falls/hanging a lot more comfortable (especially when the belayer is off the ground), prevents rope slip when people are hanging, and lowers very smoothly. Currently I can only belay top rope, but I will take a lead course in a few weeks. That said, compared to a Grigri it's easier to misuse it while lead belaying and I never lend mine to people who belay me. Also, look st any international climbing competition. 12 indoors on top rope. ) Just wanted to chime in that no climbing will ever be “risk free”! It’s all about the kind of risk that one is assuming: bouldering has a high risk of decking, but can generally be low consequence if proper measures are taken; top roping has a low risk of decking, but pretty high consequence if things go wrong. They're very used to the style of roof climbing with amazing kneebar rests. Top rope is good for linear routes that go primarily straight up and down. you can do fall-training, on a sports route, best in a climbing gym with 15+ meter walls, climb an easy route till the end, clip, double check if secure, and then take 2-3 arms length rope and jump, this should be a 4-6 meters of controlled fall. Neither the grigris nor the neox will slip if already locked with a climber hanging on the load strand. From top roping, to lead climbing, to sport and trad climbing, to learning to climb outdoors, to learning how to be self-sufficient climbing outdoors, building anchors etc etc etc. I boulder clearly under the level i can do in toprope or lead climbing. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. Climb the route, top rope up a second, then GTFO so others can climb too. Top roping isn't any safer than lead. Englewood’s rope section is massive! No auto belays but it seems relatively easy to find a climbing partner. I also have Scarpa Instinct S for lead and top rope and I love love them for small feet, pitched climbing. It feels natural for top rope belay as well, so I just choose to keep my methods consistent. If you have any desire to improve as a climber, lead climbing is a critical part of improvement. As a belayer, you do this by jumping at the exact moment you feel the climber's weight engage the rope. Hi climbers, I’m planning on top rope soloing a 50m single pitch, anchor at the top, throw my 70m rope down, rap, and then climb back up. Feb 21, 2025 · Top rope climbing, on the other hand, uses a rope. If I know they mostly climb indoor, I tend to assume they mean top rope indoor. So bouldering and has really made it easy for me to solve cruxes in my projects. See full list on gearjunkie. ). You aren't being irresponsible to your climber (they know they weigh more than you) but not all gyms would allow it. Since I discovered that I like climbing LONG endurance routes, I will be getting a longer rope. I also met some 5. In the gym where I climb they recommend no more than a 30% weight difference for lead climbing and prohibit anything over a 50% weight difference. With that, catching your climber softly on lead is essential to keeping them safe. Top Rope groups often lead to a "camp out" mentality, especially at popular moderate areas where a group will put up top ropes and camp them out all day. I would say 9. 6. Can be used in wide variety of situations For a first rope, go for a thicker one as you will most likely be top roping more. It was easy to get comfortable climbing top, and I still get nervous climbing lead. I'd rather spend my time/energy doing tries on individually harder stuff at the bouldering walls than climbing easier but more physically exhausting things on rope. EDIT: Summary of the responses to me: the difference comes from the added mental exertion in lead climbing, as falls are not a big deal with TR but can still be very dangerous while leading (sport or trad), as well as the fact that you don't have to stop to clip or place gear while TRing, which definitely adds more physical exertion. The rope increases safety because the belayer can control the rope and assist in catching the climber in the event of a fall. The prevailing assumption has been leading a route outdoor. Once you do get to the point where you can lead, grab the basics: 10-12 quickdraws 1-2 bail bieners 2 rap rings PAS 60-70m climbing rope locking carabiners atc/grigri For a beginner I would recommend getting the cheapest rope that's climbing rated you can find. The real distinction between top roping and lead climbing is the belay system used. Generally, people find that the grade that they are able to top-rope is higher than the I have a Mega Jul and a GriGri, and will only use the GriGri for top rope as I dislike the way you have to feed out slack. My understanding is: Single: your standard climbing rope. 9. More or less everything we do is top rope soloing, using a friction hitch. Yeah most of my belaying is lead belaying, where tunneling is considered more acceptable because you are able to maintain tension on the rope as you slide. 11-5. I am going to go for my lead rope certification within the next month hopefully and I was wondering about everyone's opinions on using an ATC or GriGri or any other belay device for lead climbing. I guess it boils down to the fact that I spend a larger percentage of my time focusing on technique when bouldering, compared to top rope/lead. Lead mode loosens the cam so that feeding slack is theoretically possible without manually disengaging the cam. Top rope in my gym is generally smaller holds and a bit more technical, compared to a lead route in the same difficulty level. The physicality is identical (for top rope belaying. The st Pete one is really large and nice with a big lead climbing wall. 8 - 5. I think I'd only prefer static rope for top rope soloing, and even that is theoretical because in order for me to get the top rope up I first have to lead rope solo up there and If you simply want to get outside, learn how to set up a proper top-rope and simply TR things until you are with someone who can truly teach lead climbing. I also don't waste time teaching people to belay on an ATC. The Tampa one is more of an intimate bouldering gym with a few top rope routes. I even struggle leading 5. I really liked the Grigri for top roping. Don't look at climbing as a singular road, with the sole goal of pushing grades. 9, but have been wondering lately; Should I stick with top rope, or is it better to "cross train" on bouldering problems? However that means that I’m always climbing slightly below my top-rope ability. You won't be discerning enough to tell the difference between it and a tip top Petzl 8mm. In some circumstances top roping can be dramatically riskier. The rare individual might lead and top rope the same grade, but in my experience most people will get a clean top rope ascent at least two letter grades harder than they redpoint. Then just get whatever is on sale, most of the bigger companies all make fine ropes for single pitch stuff and unless you want to ice climb getting a dry treatment is overkill. IDK just didn't appeal to me almost at all. This makes lead climbing both more dangerous and more difficult. And when I top rope, I use dynamic rope, too. For me at least, I had to focus on technique (still have to) for almost every move on a bouldering problem. Going to use a standard grigri on my belay loop and a Petzl shunt as a backup on my leg loop (but also pas’d up to my main harness loops). Does anyone have experience with the Pinch? How does it feel compared to the Grigri? Is it good for lead? Thanks! Honestly, static ropes are not very useful in free rock climbing (mostly for rappelling, fixed lines in aid climbing, etc. However I would belay off the master point of the anchor over/at the edge to maintain visual with my climber. I find top rope to be more efficient to do for training, I top rope 2-3x a week and only lead once, it’s a huge difference than having a lead-only elitist attitude lol. 8mm and bigger. Bouldering emphasizes strength and technique. Bouldering is dangerous if you don't have a crash pad or someone to spot you. I’m currently using a 3 ft. For lead it introduces some risk because you can't give and take rope fast enough but that means nothing for why it's best for top. Physical and Mental Challenges. 13 climbing. I believe it hurts it, because you are building lead up in your mind so much you will be quite fearful every time you try it. . I've been bouldering for a while now and I've finally decided to try doing some top rope. Totally trusted my feet. If you can project an 8a+ then your confidence on lead is probably high. I think I get the basic concepts and uses, but there is so much to know about using them within their limitations but also being willing to use them in other scenarios while accepting the risks that come. The obvious example is speed climbing, but between bouldering and sport climbing (lead and top) the gap has increased the last years due to the modern style of setting. Only once have I flashed a 5. 5 isn't better than 9. I basically never Boulder. the ATC guide in guide mode will lock unless you actively prevent it from happening no matter how slow you pull the rope. Got my top rope belay cert, and ended up climbing top rope or autobelay a total of like 3 times in the following 6-7 months. The belay point for a top rope can be either anchored to the groud or not (normally is) but for leading the belay point should not be anchored as this gives the climber a softer fall. However, I am looking to get into lead climbing and potentially start going outside once I'm comfortable with the basics of lead (and when New England winter allows it lol). Also was able to wear them the whole time fairly comfortably. It's basically a Grigri but the rope runs through it in a straight way when unlocked, so it feeds a bit better (didn't compare to a proper ascender). Climbing is about experience. I've always wondered why the rock climbing community has never accepted this as a viable option. Nov 27, 2023 · Top rope climbing involves climbing up a route while securely attached to a rope that is anchored at the top of the climbing surface. The Sport Climbing competitions (YouTube it, its really awesome!). The Grigri is a more versatile device. The best current setup for top rope soloing is a combo of the Trango Vergo and the Microtrax. They have another location in st Pete (maybe 30-40 minutes from the Tampa one. Google it to find pictures of how to orient the devices. Lead climbing, on the other hand, involves ascending a route while attaching yourself to the rope as you climb. Agree with the Veloce. No need to switch devices for lowering. To me that particular few holds feel like a boulder problem Without modifying your gri-gri, I don't know of any way to get the rope to feed hands-free. The more burly the rope, the less likely everything will cooperate. Hey guys. But on the other hand, there are plenty of routes that the opposite could be said, and are much safer to top rope. In an ideal fall for a lead climb you'll only fall as far as your last clip, plus any slack. You always have to start at the beginning every time you fall. msfduye ofard xnfa foqqsn nbld lwzkaa cxlgp dryon tlir awwnp fiujor sbfe qepflaol kbbzf ojpwde